As published in The Florida Villager
Orcas Island, largest of the San Juan islands is 56 square miles of breath taking beauty that leaves you feeling tranquil and rejuvenated.
It was a cool foggy morning that I boarded the ferry from San Juan Island to cross over to Orcas. You can make your way to Orcas by seaplane as well but I wanted to go by water and experience the beauty of the landscape from below instead of from above. An hour later I was pulling up to the ferry landing at Orcas, which dates back to 1889, and so my two-day respite began.
Jumping in the car, I was told to follow the Scenic Byway, as it would bring me to all the main stops and true to their word, it was a full days adventure. My first stop was in Deer Harbor, a quaint hamlet, where I procured a kayak and found myself surrounded by some of the most awestruck scenery. Despite the people milling about on the dock and boats, it was surprisingly quiet except for the birds overhead and the lapping of my paddles. I could have gone whale watching but since I had just done that at San Juan Island, I wanted to get some hiking in at Moran State Park.
Moran State Park has five fresh water lakes where you can rent a paddleboat or as I was about to do, hike to a waterfall. With fifteen trails, there is a level for everyone. I ended up hiking Mt Constitution because at an elevation of 2,409 feet there is a 360-degree view once you reach the observation tower, which includes Mt. Baker. Upon arriving at the top, I caught my breath. I have been all over hiking and exploring nature but this view was unsurpassed. I think I must have sat on my little ledge for over an hour just feeling the breeze and soaking up the beauty. Needless to say, because of time restraints, I never made it to the waterfall because I had a date with a horse. Orcas Trail Rides saddled me up and for an hour and a half I meandered the trails through the forest. To be honest, if I had done nothing else but these few hours of being in nature, I would have been fine but I needed to move on. Whether you hike, drive or float your way in Moran State Park, please don’t miss this experience.
Ok, this isn’t fair were my first thoughts as I walked into the Doe Bay Café at Doe Bay Resort and Retreat. Once again, another place I wanted to hang out at. At Doe Bay you can rent cabins, a campsite or a yurt. They offer massage, individual soaking tubs, yoga and a community fire pit to help you unwind. The café offers seed to table cuisine and the people could not be nicer. I added it to my bucket list!
My final stop for the day was in Eastsound Village, the main village on the island. The Outlook Inn, built in 1888, sits on Main St. and houses a gorgeous 125-year-old fireplace. I met up with Sara Farish, the owner, and had one heck of an amazing dinner at New Leaf Café. I asked her to describe Orcas and her description was spot on. “We have a renegade, maverick spirit here.” Funny thing is, I could feel that spirit in talking with the locals, which only added to the overall energy of the town.
After dinner, I stepped out into the cool salty air and walked Main Street; the whole village brought back a distant memory of Maine. Emmanuel Episcopal Parish has a labyrinth that I stopped to walk and then took up residence in one of the many Adirondack chairs scattered about to gaze out at Fishing Bay with its towering old cedars and Douglas firs dotting the coast.
Up early, grabbed some steaming coffee, walked the labyrinth one last time and headed out to explore the many farms and pottery studios. All these farms, Pebble Cove Farm, Red Rabbit Farm, Orcas Moon Alpacas and Once in a Blue Moon Farm, are interactive and worth enjoying.
Orcas has many studios that are filled with paintings, jewelers, sculptors and woodworkers. The pottery is fabulous and they will ship. My favorite is Orcas Island Pottery, which is the oldest pottery in the Pacific Northwest and has a tree house. The whole studio and grounds has a very whimsical feel and is a must see.
My day was quickly passing and I had two more stops to make. Pulling up to the front of the Rosario Resort was taking a step back into a different era. My jaw dropped! Between the old architecture and the magnificent views of Cascade Bay and East Sound, I felt like I was on a movie set from the 1920’s.
My last stop before heading out was Roses to grab some of those crab cakes I had heard so much about. While there, I picked up some homemade bread and a bottle of wine from their bakery and wine shop and slowly made my way to my car. With a wave of my hand and the breeze blowing though my windows, I said goodbye to Orcas and rounded the bend to my next adventure on Whidbey and Camano Islands